GM Tech2 Clone Duramax Review

 Since all I drive is GM vehicles I figured I should own a GM scanner under $300.  I have done some research online and found a working Tech II clone with positive reviews.

I just ordered a Tech2 Chinese clone latest night. I didn’t pay extra $55 just for the stupid plastic box.

Here is the unit I purchased for reference:

https://www.obdii365.com/wholesale/gm-tech2-gm-diagnostic-scanner-with-32mb-card-tis2000.html

Shipping was free and fast.  The package shipped from Hong Kong on Monday and arrived at my door on Thursday. Amazing!  Everything appears to be as advertised, except I didn’t receive all of the stickers. Not a huge deal.  Here are a few pictures I snapped with my phone. The tech2 clone has 2 pins on the top middle row that stick out a hair further than the others.  I saw a youtube video of a guy who noticed the same thing, but he said it worked fine.

Apparently there IS a medium duty truck option. I will take the Tech 2 to work on Monday and try hooking up to a GMC 5500 Duramax. They have a medium duty diagnostics port AND an OBD2 port under the dash. I have used a Snap-On scanner on these medium duty trucks before, and now I am excited to try the Tech 2!

Here is some engine data from my 2.2L beast. I started the engine and watched everything live. I also recorded some “snapshot” data and re-watched it. Pretty cool. I know most modern scanners can also do this.

Checking for Air Bag codes/communications. I did not have any DTCs. It is nice to know I can pull airbag codes and look at data!

I was able to auto bleed the ABS system. I felt the ABS pump vibrating through the pedal. I have done this at work after replacing rusty brake lines coming out of the ABS pump. Very useful, because it is nearly impossible to get air out of the ABS pump without being able to “auto bleed.”

Overall I am very pleased with the function of the Chinese GM Tech 2. This technology is ancient by today’s standards, so it’s no surprise the Chinese are able to easily duplicate the tool and the basic software. I am headed to purchase a laptop and then I will download the TIS2000 software in order to program modules. One more cool thing I found in the “Chassis” section. Tire sizes. I can select a different tire size if I change my wheels and tires, therefore keeping the speedometer accurate. I think that’s cool as hell!

http://blog.obdii365.com/2021/11/15/gm-tech2-china-clone-review-on-gmc-duramax/

Saab 2006 Rear Window Express Program Retrofit with Tech2

 Rear window "express-up" retrofit

So, as we all know, in 2006 and newer models, SAAB got rid of the express-up feature for the rear door windows when controlled from the driver's switchpack. Call it GM "decontenting" or maybe due to societal stupidity and potential lawsuits (?), whatever the reason, I really like the feature and it's always driven me nuts that the switches are there but don't work as they should. It's like dangling candy in front of a baby! :evil: I probably wouldn't even have thought to do this if SAAB hadn't kept using the driver's switchpack with double-detent rear window buttons! But they did. And I most always drive with my windows down, especially the drivers window and the window directly behind me (so I don't get buffeted in the face, try it sometime!).

So, with that said, here's how to retrofit express-up windows into your 2006+ sedan or Combi.

You'll need the following parts:

- Rear left window motor (6-pin version), part number 12788801
- Rear right window motor (6-pin version), part number 12788802

- Rear left window regulator (pinch-protection version), part number 12793730
- Rear right window regulator (pinch-protection version), part number 12793731

- Rear left door harness (w/6 pin motor connection), part number 12785580
- Rear right door harness (w/6 pin motor connection), part number 12785581

- GM Tech 2, CANdi box, security access with TIS2000 subscription

- Patience and a good chunk of time

Everything is literally plug and play once you've sourced the correct parts. Remove and replace the regulators, motors, and harnesses. Not hard to do at all. 

The only exception is if you have rear door speakers like I do (apparently not that common?). You'll have to transplant the speaker harness into the new harness to keep the speakers. Couple of thoughts on this: rear door speakers really don't do a whole lot, so it's not a deal-breaker if you don't feel like doing this. Or if you want, you can just make a new harness for the speakers. I wanted to do it factory-style, so I moved the harness, moved the pins, re-wrapped the harness, etc.

After everything is in, it won't work. Don't worry! You still need to program the RLDM and RRDM (rear left and right door modules). In comes the Tech 2:

1. Get security access.
2. Diagnostics, select year and car, select "All".
3. Add/Remove.
4. Remove both the RLDM and RRDM.
5. Add the RLDM and RRDM, specify "With Anti-Pinch Motors". Also select "EU" for Market just in case. Here's the tricky part, where I almost gave up! DO NOT SELECT THE YEAR OF YOUR CAR. It won't work. You have to "trick" the system. Select 2004 when it asks the year of the car.
6. Once the modules have been added back in, calibrate the rear window pinch protection just as you would the front windows. You'll hear a "beep" from the SID letting you know the windows have been calibrated.
7. Enjoy your express-up windows!

This may seem trivial but I literally yelped when it finally worked. 

 What good are auto-up windows if only 2 of the 4 work?

Hope that helps anyone else looking to do this!

GM Saab PSG16 Programming by Tech2 via SPS

 Question:

I need to program a psg16 pump vp44 (the Opel Vectra 2.2 dti car got several electrical errors due to a PSG16 change). I see that gm tech2 scanner can do it. If I buy a new PCMCIA card, can I get it working? the MDI/MDI2 can I also program?

Answer:

You can flash/swap PSG16 pump via SPS original software.

If you want to program PSG16 you can easily do it with tech2 and TIS2000, GlobalTis v32 or Tis2web. You can buy any card because you can overwrite the software that you need from TIS.

You also can use GM MDI or GM MDI2 or AVDI or any good/approved J2534 tool can be used to do SPS Programming in PSG16.
You download sps on PCMCIA card then cut from card read.

EDC 15 / PSG 16 Reprogramming by Tech2 via SPS

Follow the description below carefully to ensure success.

 

1. Connect TECH2 scan tool to the data link connector.

2. Start TECH2 and select F5: Service Programming System (SPS).

3. Select F0: Request Information.

4. Then select: model year, vehicle type, group, system

5. Follow the instructions in TECH2.

6. Disconnect TECH2 from the vehicle and connect it to the COM port of the computer (flat cable). TIS2000 must be installed on the computer.

7. Check that the software of the computer is newer than that of EDC 15/PSG 16. If so, download it to TECH2.

8. Disconnect TECH2 from the computer and reconnect it to the vehicle.

9. Start TECH2 and select F5: Service Programming System (SPS).

10. Select F1: Program control module.

11. Follow the instructions in TECH2.

12. Wait until programming is complete. This takes approx. 7 minutes.

13. Once programming is complete: switch off the ignition.

14. Test start the engine.

15. Read and clear any DTCs in the control unit. A DTC will be generated because the pump control unit loses communication with EDC 15/PSG 16 during programming.

16. Final check:

Clear DTCs in all systems.

Execute one operating cycle (run the vehicle at varying engine load and speed for five minutes).

Evaluate the operating cycle (check that DTCs were not regenerated).

http://blog.obdii365.com/2021/03/09/gm-saab-psg16-pump-sps-programming-via-tech2/

Diagnose C5 Corvette: GM Tech2 vs VCX Nano

 After receiving GM Tech2 scanner as a 2020 Christmas gift from my brother (look at the following image), some friends are kind jealous (hahaha) because they think it is a great gift and saying I’ll get many uses for this tool. it is a $250-300.

 

I have done a bunch of job with GM Tech2, here I take some for examples:

1. You can do an automatic bleed on the brakes with it, and bleed the abs pump. Without it you aren’t really able to bleed the system completely.

 

2. I know my brother was happy that we could use the tech 2 on his 95 k1500 too.

 

3. Tried to pay my brother back some by using the tech 2 to pull some codes on his 95 k1500. Egr code came up. Also programmed my sisters (his wife) TPMS on her RX350 so she would quit complaining about the light to him.

   I also almost killed the battery in the corvette playing with the tech 2. Next time I gotta remember to hook up the charger before spending 20 minutes playing with it.

 

Next is VXDIAG VCX Nano GM scanner

 

I have the VCX Nano – which emulates the Tech 2 on a laptop. It works flawlessly and is installed on the same laptop as my HPTuners, Alldatadiy, etc. I have turned a laptop into a great all in one diagnostic tool for all my corvette needs – or just to look like a complete fast and furious nerd to my neighbors. One of whom is a old school hot rodder with a 32 Ford coupe – and he LOVES making fun of all the technical growing pains I had building my car.

 

This is the obdii365 link to the VCX Nano:

https://www.obdii365.com/wholesale/vxdiag-vcx-nano-for-gm-opel-gds2-scanner.html

 

Here I’d like to answer several questions after I gave good feedback to VCX Nano:

1. VCX Nano is all inclusive and is a complete functioning Tech 2.. The one thing I don’t think it can do is connect to GM servers and download updates to modules and systems.

 

2. I just verified VCX Nano will do the RPO modifications. I haven’t found anything it won’t do aside from connect to GM servers – you can test every module on the car. It’s a pretty impressive tool to be honest.

 

3. As far as computer requirements – I have it installed on a run of the mill laptop that was basic when it was new two years ago and would probably choke up on a heavy porn hub tasking. No issues at all.
   
   I bought it to cycle the ABS system when I replaced all of my brake fluid. And the few times it helped me after were diagnosing which fuel sending unit was dead (you can see voltage output from each sending unit) and when my passenger door regulator was gone (I could see the door module was still alive and doing what it was supposed to). However, a dude down the street has a C5 full of issues and we diagnosed which cylinder was misfiring, his faulty gauge cluster, and a few other things. Honestly it’s been handy for the $100.

 

So, That is amazing for the VCX Nano price. Definitely added to the wish list by someone.

 

To sum up:

To diagnose C5 Corvette, both GM Tech 2 clone and VXDIAG GM scanner are good. Even Tech 2 can work with old GM models. and VCX Nano can do RPO modifications etc.

http://blog.obdii365.com/2020/12/30/diagnose-c5-corvette-gm-tech2-vs-vxdiag/

GM Tech2 Reset 05 Chevrolet Corvette Brake light

Car model and year:

2005 Chevrolet Corvette M6 base

 

Symptom:

Brake lights are not working. Including the 3rd brake light.

 

GM scanner:

1. I do have an Autel 519.
2. GM Tech II scanner (is a must tool)

 

What I tried to do:

Replaced the brake light switch. Swapped back in the original. Still no brake lights.

 

What should do next? (From experienced user)  

1. When changing the BPS, did you do a relearn with a Tech II to calibrate it with the BCM.

   When you have the tech II on the car to do the BPS relearn, did you go into BCM data after to see if the pedal was signaling the BCM to turn on the brake lights?

   Hence problem could be BPS not calibrated correctly to start with at the BCM, or could be the wiring/rear bumper void connector, or just rear grounding the problem instead.

   And if you don’t own a Tech II ( at least clone) to work on the car, it’s your first mistake, since even basic items like brake pedal sensor replacement have to be calibrated to the BCM via the tool. So on that note, if you list your location, someone local may have a Tech II to put on the car, until you get your own.

 

2. For Autel 519

The brake position sensor is a restate type device, not a on/off switch. So when it replaced in the car and since the each sensor will have a slightly different reading, the BCM has to learn it value when the pedal is not pushed, then when the pedal is pushed.

Double check your Autel 519, but not sure is has a BPS relearn for the GM cars on it, which is required when the brake pedal sensor is replaced.

Once the BPS vavlues have been learned to the BCM, then you can go into BCM data to make sure that the BCM is seeing the changing rates, and activating the brake lights. From here, then we are done to just the fuse and wiring from the BCM to the lights (then ground).

So again, could be the old BPS is worn, and its current resitance values are not the ones first leaned in, the replace values where never learned in, and why the BCM is not seeing the correct values to turn on the brake lights to begin with.

 

Finally, Solved!

I took the car to my friend’s shop. He fixed it in 5 minutes with a BPS relearn. I’m not sure why this was required. I did change out the switch but I put the original back in. Or the previous owner could have changed it and not known a relearn was required. He actually knocked quite a bit of money off the car because of this issue. Either way I have brake lights!

 

Good to know:

I have/used just about every Tech II / MDI device known, and it’s the VX GM Nano’s that I use the most (have one in both usb and wifi versions).
Hence it works at both a Tech II using cracked Tech2win software for the C6 and back cars for free that comes with it, and since it is a MDI clone to being with, works for C7 and newer cars running GSD2/TDS as well.

Hence the problem with the hand held tech II clones, is they only work on C6 or later cars, and not the newer cars that need MDI running GDS2 instead.
Regarding using TIS2000 with a hand held tech II clone, the unit only comes with a rs-232 connector cable, so you end up having to pick up a usb cable to connect it to a machine to run tis2000 instead.

So quick break down of GM software.
Tech2win is the same software that the hand held tech II’s runs internally, but runs it on a laptop instead. It’s used for diagnostics, and a few relearn type features.

Tis2000 is used for SPS firmware flashing of the C6 cars back. Note, there is the standard version that only goes up to 2009 cars, then there is the abroad version for spotty internet areas that will go up to 2013, since TDS may not work correctly if the area internet is not fast enough (think abroad where a service area may only have phone dial up).

GDS2 is the diagnostic and some relearn items for the 2014 and up cars.

TDS is the on-line SPS programming that replaced Tis2000 for the new cars from 2009 up for most firmware and special programming, even on the older cars.

As for the VX GM nano, runs all the above software, and in most cases (short of TDS that you would need to pay for a subscription), does so for free. Hence this is the reason that it’s favored, since it covers me on pretty much any GM car running no service fee software..

 

Credits to @Dano523 (CF Senior Member)

 

For the reliable clone GM TECH2, MDI and VXDIAG NANO GM, you are advised this one:

GM TECH2

GM MDI

VXDIAG NANO GM (USB)

VXDIAG NANO GM (WIFI) 

How to Install TIS2000 on Win10 RCA Cambio Tablet?

 The RCA Cambio (…Only $110.00 on Amazon) has a (6) Hour Battery Life and is Very Lightweight… with a VERY Small Foot Print that will allow it to sit on the Center Console or be rotated into a Tall Rectangle for ease of Touch Screen use inside the Cab.  Also… it is nice because all of the other Windows 10 Apps still function and you can Install HP Tuners (The Latest Blue Tooth Version) on the same Tablet with plenty of room to spare for easy Data-Logging.

The RCA Cambio has both the Touch Screen and Wide Touch Mouse Pad options built into the included Magnetic removable QWERTY Keyboard that sports NICE BIG Keys and is nice and crisp when typing. The Screen quality …even at 1280 X 800 Pixels is Clear and Bright.

This solution for Direct CD Installation should work on ANY Windows 10 Computer that supports the (32) Bit Operating System as a Fresh Installation.

How To Install TIS2000 on an RCA Cambio Tablet 10.1”

Procedure (Windows 10 (32) Bit Operating System ):

(1) This Technique will NOT work on ANY of the 64 Bit Flavor Windows 10 Computers.

(2) Visit the Link Below and Follow the Instructions, On Screen Prompts and Screen Prints to Wake Up the Native (16) Bit Capabilities of Windows 10:

http://techgenix.com/16-bit-applications-windows-10/

(3) Reboot the Tablet and Turn Off the WIFI, Firewall and Anti-Virus Apps.

(4) Use a Rioddas Standard USB External DVD Burner to Install the (3) TIS2000 Disks (NO PS Required). The RCA Cambio comes with One Standard Size 3.0 USB Port on the Side Plane.The Rioddas Unit is SWEET and STABLE.

(5) Use the Latest Flavor of TIS2000 (3) Disk Set of Installation CDs. Note that during the Final Disc Install… the 3rd Mini-Disk has a Properly Working Dongle Crack available as a single .DLL File to Copy/Transfer to the cosids/bin sub-directory. Rename the Old .DLL before doing this.

(6) Reboot the Machine and then, after turning on the WIFI, Firewall and Anti-Virus Programs, Select the TIS2000 Icon from the Desktop and put the App through its Paces to ensure that the SPS Program Functions properly… without any AV or FW interruptions that might harm the Tech 2 Hand Held Scanner. A GOOD USB to Serial Port Adapter WILL be required.

(7) That’s all there is to it… No Complicated VMWARE… No Weird ‘Windows Magic’… and No Entanglements. It is just a Direct CD Installation using the Hidden (16) Bit Drivers Native to the Windows 10 (32) Bit Edition to coax things along.

Done.

Read aslo: How to install TIS2000 for GM Tech2 scanner

Change the Ambient Light Sensor on Chevy HHR Tutorial

 I have one Chevy HHR and I had the problem with the dash being in night mode during bright sunlight(meaning the displays were dim and the dimmer would vary the brightness. ) Occasionally they would brighten up to max and the dimmer would no longer control the brightness (daytime mode.) This might never happen but when it did it could be 30 minutes after getting into sunlight. Turning the automatic lights off put it into daylight mode so I know the lamps/displays were all good. Shining a bright light on the sensor wouldn’t cause it to switch. They would stay dim.

The fix was the ambient light sensor at the top of the dash (often called the DRL sensor.) While it’s not a cakewalk to replace, it’s not terribly hard:

Tools to use:
– 7mm nut driver or socket unless a Philips is indicated
– 10mm deep socket and long extension
– Philips screwdriver. Shorty helps.
– Trim tools if you have them but not necessary. Just don’t pull until you know you didn’t miss a screw.
– New sensor: I ordered the 15837063 from the parts PDF and got a 13498957. It sits a bit more recessed in the dash but is otherwise a perfect fit. I don’t know if this is an updated version or they are just shipping one that will fit from some other model car.
– I pasted an illustration of the screws holding the dash top down but it excluded the airbag bolts/nuts (see below.) Check for missed screws before you lift or pull!

1. Disconnect the battery. While you are not removing/disconnecting airbags you are messing around near them. You sure disable the airbags properly.
2. Removed the cubby below the HVAC controls and in front of the shifter. It just pulls out.
3. Remove the two screws holding the shifter surround to the dash under that cubby. Pull the surround back and up. This is to let the radio/HVAC trim to come out easier at the bottom and not break any tabs.
4. Grab the trim at the two dash vent openings at the top and pull. The trim will come out. Tilt it out and lift it from the bottom.
5. Remove the left and right pillar trim. There is a screw under the cover at the top on each side. You don’t need to completely remove them but pull them up so the dash top can lift up. If you have airbags, leave them connected. I don’t have them.
6. Remove the two screws on the left and right side holding the top dash trim to the dash frame. They are under the pillar trim you took off.
7. Remove the two screws holding the top storage compartment box in. Lift it out. (Philips)
8. Remove the two screws under that box holding the trim to the dash under that box.
9. Remove the single screw near the windshield holding the trim to the dash under that box.
10. Remove the two screws under the instrument panel trim at the top (above the cluster.) (Phillips.)
11. Release the two tabs on the lower glove box and let everything fall to the floor. Now let the door/shelf tilt down. Throw away the five year old registrations and insurance cards.
12. You don’t need to remove the air bag, rather removing the nuts (or screwing the down to the end of the bolts) lets the panel lift up.
13. Remove the two 10mm passenger airbag nuts that are on two long screws under the dash along the support beam. If you look or reach up there you can easily feel/see them.
14. On the driver’s side, lift up and pull out on the upper trim. There are clips along the windshield holding it down.
15. Now you can lift up on the center near the sensor and with the nuts on the airbag loosened, you can lift up the center of the dash top, reach in the while scraping the crap out of your hand and remove the sensor. On mine there was enough wire length to let me rotate it (it’s a bayonet lock) and then reach in and press the tab to release the connector. I connected the connector first then reaching in and rotated the sensor into place.
16. Assembly is the reverse. If the top seems to not want to drop flush again, check that the tabs along the windshield are in their slots. Also check the curved/hooked tabs on each side of the cluster. They tend to hang up. Just gently push them in.
17. This is a good time to add any felt pads to the trim to stop the squeaking. 

– While I didn’t measure the good sensor before I installed it (dang), the bad one measured around 15k ohms covered and around 5k ohms with a bright light shining on it.

– If you have a GM Tech 2 scanner, the bad sensor would read around 4.5V in the dark (or covered) and a bright light would make it intermittently dip to 2V but never hold and often with no dip at all. The ambient sensor is in Body/Special Functions./Headlights.

– The new sensor reads 4.5V dark and 2.6V in sunlight on the Tech 2. You could also measure it at the BCM wires. One thing I’ve noticed on mine since I bought it is there is about a 90 second delay from going from a dark garage to sunlight before it switches to daylight mode (DRL and no dash dimmer control.) With the new sensor it now does that again.

If you have any clarifications, see errors or additional details, let me know and I will add/correct them.

 

Credits to @ terryk

 

Alright, welcome leave message at www.obdii365.com if you have any advice and suggestion.

http://blog.obdii365.com/2020/12/01/change-the-ambient-light-sensor-on-chevy-hhr/