Change the Ambient Light Sensor on Chevy HHR Tutorial

 I have one Chevy HHR and I had the problem with the dash being in night mode during bright sunlight(meaning the displays were dim and the dimmer would vary the brightness. ) Occasionally they would brighten up to max and the dimmer would no longer control the brightness (daytime mode.) This might never happen but when it did it could be 30 minutes after getting into sunlight. Turning the automatic lights off put it into daylight mode so I know the lamps/displays were all good. Shining a bright light on the sensor wouldn’t cause it to switch. They would stay dim.

The fix was the ambient light sensor at the top of the dash (often called the DRL sensor.) While it’s not a cakewalk to replace, it’s not terribly hard:

Tools to use:
– 7mm nut driver or socket unless a Philips is indicated
– 10mm deep socket and long extension
– Philips screwdriver. Shorty helps.
– Trim tools if you have them but not necessary. Just don’t pull until you know you didn’t miss a screw.
– New sensor: I ordered the 15837063 from the parts PDF and got a 13498957. It sits a bit more recessed in the dash but is otherwise a perfect fit. I don’t know if this is an updated version or they are just shipping one that will fit from some other model car.
– I pasted an illustration of the screws holding the dash top down but it excluded the airbag bolts/nuts (see below.) Check for missed screws before you lift or pull!

1. Disconnect the battery. While you are not removing/disconnecting airbags you are messing around near them. You sure disable the airbags properly.
2. Removed the cubby below the HVAC controls and in front of the shifter. It just pulls out.
3. Remove the two screws holding the shifter surround to the dash under that cubby. Pull the surround back and up. This is to let the radio/HVAC trim to come out easier at the bottom and not break any tabs.
4. Grab the trim at the two dash vent openings at the top and pull. The trim will come out. Tilt it out and lift it from the bottom.
5. Remove the left and right pillar trim. There is a screw under the cover at the top on each side. You don’t need to completely remove them but pull them up so the dash top can lift up. If you have airbags, leave them connected. I don’t have them.
6. Remove the two screws on the left and right side holding the top dash trim to the dash frame. They are under the pillar trim you took off.
7. Remove the two screws holding the top storage compartment box in. Lift it out. (Philips)
8. Remove the two screws under that box holding the trim to the dash under that box.
9. Remove the single screw near the windshield holding the trim to the dash under that box.
10. Remove the two screws under the instrument panel trim at the top (above the cluster.) (Phillips.)
11. Release the two tabs on the lower glove box and let everything fall to the floor. Now let the door/shelf tilt down. Throw away the five year old registrations and insurance cards.
12. You don’t need to remove the air bag, rather removing the nuts (or screwing the down to the end of the bolts) lets the panel lift up.
13. Remove the two 10mm passenger airbag nuts that are on two long screws under the dash along the support beam. If you look or reach up there you can easily feel/see them.
14. On the driver’s side, lift up and pull out on the upper trim. There are clips along the windshield holding it down.
15. Now you can lift up on the center near the sensor and with the nuts on the airbag loosened, you can lift up the center of the dash top, reach in the while scraping the crap out of your hand and remove the sensor. On mine there was enough wire length to let me rotate it (it’s a bayonet lock) and then reach in and press the tab to release the connector. I connected the connector first then reaching in and rotated the sensor into place.
16. Assembly is the reverse. If the top seems to not want to drop flush again, check that the tabs along the windshield are in their slots. Also check the curved/hooked tabs on each side of the cluster. They tend to hang up. Just gently push them in.
17. This is a good time to add any felt pads to the trim to stop the squeaking. 

– While I didn’t measure the good sensor before I installed it (dang), the bad one measured around 15k ohms covered and around 5k ohms with a bright light shining on it.

– If you have a GM Tech 2 scanner, the bad sensor would read around 4.5V in the dark (or covered) and a bright light would make it intermittently dip to 2V but never hold and often with no dip at all. The ambient sensor is in Body/Special Functions./Headlights.

– The new sensor reads 4.5V dark and 2.6V in sunlight on the Tech 2. You could also measure it at the BCM wires. One thing I’ve noticed on mine since I bought it is there is about a 90 second delay from going from a dark garage to sunlight before it switches to daylight mode (DRL and no dash dimmer control.) With the new sensor it now does that again.

If you have any clarifications, see errors or additional details, let me know and I will add/correct them.

 

Credits to @ terryk

 

Alright, welcome leave message at www.obdii365.com if you have any advice and suggestion.

http://blog.obdii365.com/2020/12/01/change-the-ambient-light-sensor-on-chevy-hhr/

GM Tech2 Clone SP23 Series Which One to Buy?

Here's customer suggestion on which tech2 clone should you get: 

"The one I ordered shows this software version: GM- English 33.004 1991- 2013
http://www.obdii365.com/wholesale/gm...d-tis2000.html

My buddy at the Chevy dealer says theirs is also at v.33.004

The one on aliexpress didn't mention any designations such as -B, -C etc. (or part number at all), so at that price it may likely be one of the cheaper hardware versions, which steered me towards obdii365.

They also had this on the site to explain the differences, plus another vendor confirmed the info in an email request I sent out yesterday:


Tips Help you choose suitable Tech II:

There are 5 configurations of Tech2 on our website, they are SP23-B3, SP23-B, SP23-C and SP23, SP23-1

All of them have the same function, their differences are :

SP23-B is the best Tech2 with Black Carry box, more stable

SP23-B3 is the SP23-B with carton box and best quality

SP23,SP23-C is the same as SP23-B, it also includes the Black carry box, but comes from another manufacture.

SP23-1 is the most cost effective one, it is with carton box, will help you save much more money.

In conclusion:

If you need the most professional Tech2 with best quality, please choose SP23-B ,because it has a black carry box.

If you need cheaper Tech2 with best quality, please choose SP23-B3"

96 LT4 Corvette PCM Reprogramming by GM tech2 Clone

I purchased a 1996 PCM that was used for short money, my goal was to keep it as a spare for my ’96 LT4 Vette since parts are getting harder to come by.
I removed my PCM and installed this used PCM. I took out my GM Tech 2 Clone, opened my Windows XP Netbook that I had previously installed the TIS 2000 software (this software disk came with the Tech 2 Clone). I opened the TIS 2000 application and went to the “Service Program Application” and followed the steps to “Reprogram ECU”.
Now this used PCM obviously had a different VIN. So during the program when it prompted me to see if the VIN was correct I deleted the old VIN and entered in my cars VIN.
Then I uploaded the program for my VIN into the TECH2 Clone per the prompts, disconnected the Tech 2 Clone from my Netbook and connected my Tech 2 Clone to my OBDII port. I turned the ignition ON without starting the car and selected “Service Programming System” followed the prompts and watched the TECH 2 Clone load my VIN programming for my car.
It worked great, in fact I bought a second 1996 PCM for $150.00 and performed the same procedure and that one worked just as well!
After I used my JET DST to upload my Tune for my engine into the PCMs. The Tech II will obviously only install the factory calibrations. Now I have two spares in case my original fails.
Hope this information is helpful.

TIS2000 Application

Here is where you select Reprogram ECU.

These are the prompts for the Tech 2 setup.

First I only have a 1996 with the OBD II, this is all I could experiment with so I can’t check other years.
I think it can also work on the 94, 95 model years as well, but I could be wrong.
The TIS 2000 software comes with the Tech 2 scanner.

http://blog.obdii365.com/2020/07/21/gm-tech2-pcm-reprogramming-on-96-lt4-corvette/

2005 GMC Canyon Crankshaft Position Variation Learn by Tech2

All right, today we’re going to be going through a crankshaft position relearn sequence on a Chevy Colorado or a GMC Canyon. My trucks of 2005 GMC Canyon with 3.5 liter, so the first thing we’re going to do today is to have our GM Tech 2 scan tool to setup here, we’re going to plug it into the DC port down here and we’re going to have the obd2 port hooked up down here. Once we have that all hooked up, first thing we’re gonna do is we wanna start our truck and you want to have it warmed up. You can see I’m about probably at 160 right now I think the bare minimum is about 155, so I’m just above the line of what we need to be.

So we’re going to start it and then once we do that we will hit the power button down in the GM Tech2 scanner. It will run through its initialization sequence here.

Go to “Diagnostics”.

Select my year “2005”.

Select “LD Trk, MPV, Incomplete”.

Enter “GMC Truck”.

And the product line code for our trucks is a S. So if you have a Chevy Colorados can be the same thing, it’s going to be Chevy truck and then S.

Canyon.

Going to “Powertrain”.

3.5L L5 L52.

Speed automatic.

Special functions (We wanna go).

Crankshaft Pos. Variation Learn.

Continue.

Continue.

Make sure your parking brake set, it says “Do not apply brake pedal”. We’re going to click “Enter”. It says apply and hold brake pedal so I’m going to apply the brake pedal down there, turn your AC off and vehicle must remain in park or Neutral. Press Enter to continue.

It says “Accelerate to WOT. Release when fuel cutoff occurs.

And try to get both screens here at the same time. You see it already shut me down.

Test in progress.

Learn status: learned this ignition.

Perfect, it’s exactly what we want.

Press “Exit”.

We wanna go “Diagnostic trouble codes (DTC).

DTC information.

DTC Info.

No diagnostic trouble codes.

Back to “Diagnostic test status”.

Clear DTC information.

Yes to continue.

Go back to “DTC info” and no diagnostic trouble codes.

Conclusion:

You just fix the problem, you’re done.

And that’s how you use GM Tech2 do a crankshaft position relearn on a 2004 – 2012 Chevy Colorado /Canyon.

Thanks .

http://blog.obdii365.com/2020/07/08/gm-tech2-crankshaft-position-variation-learn/

Free Download Tech2Win 16.02.24 for VCM2 clone

Friend. I find GM Tech2WIN for interface Ford VCM II clones. You need have installer IDS V86 for VCM II drivers.

Tech2Win 16.02.24 mega link:

https://mega.nz/file/tIFWUIxT#XBAFZWEFPhQ3A9MtyPYfT1wojVgB1sEmt2T62nrmQcM

Find V185.000 GM Brasil.bin. Now found partial in brasil cars !!! Tested for my only in Corsa C brasil 2006 year 1.8 with MTA Easytronic -ABS -Airbag-BCM .
Only can communicate with Ecu engine and immobilizer module. The others cars not tested !

opel_vauxhall_184.000

https://mega.nz/file/1IgT3CRa#vLc91U_7ow_6KrIwUF5qE6_jpeFtocmI8t6p-XMqK4w

GM brasil V185000-OK

https://mega.nz/file/0AoznaYA#4VyfJo2w-lctc3QfmMYh2YygGTJJAqNzS8mj3yHIY98

Tech2WinPatcherV08

https://mega.nz/file/QV5VUKyC#0nBBKgosWnPIjSChVRgf1jgNzA7PEAmuukq_qQuidH0

Enjoy!

Possible to Change Option Settings on Impala BCM with Tech2?

Problem:
I have a 2008 Impala LT with no fog lights and no heated seats. I read that these options are controlled by the BCM, so if I upgrade my car with used heated seats and fog lights (with factory wires and switches) they will not work like factory since my BCM is not programmed for them. Question I have, if I get access to a GM Tech 2 scan tool, would that allow me to change the option settings on my BCM? Or are these programmed at the factory and once the BCM is programmed once it cannot be changed? Or is a new BCM needed that would have to be fully programmed to my VIN and the options added as well.
Just wondering if it would be worth investing in a Tech2, since I see they have Chinese copies available for less than $300...

Solution:

You need a single VIN subscription at https://www.acdelcotds.com/acdelco/action/subscribehome to program the BCM.

This will only allow you to program the BCM with the options originally installed in your vehicle.

You may be able to lie to the software if you have a VIN for a vehicle with the options you have and want to add but GM will not give you a Calibration ID to add options.

To use the Tech II in J2534 passthru mode. You'll need a laptop with an RS232 Serial port. USB to RS232 will not usually work. You can use an Expresscard or PCMCIA/Cardbus RS232 adapter.

If you have a laptop I'd get a WiFi MDI clone and install the hacked Tech2Win software on a Virtual Machine running Windows 7 or a beat up old laptop that's not on your network. You can use the Bosch MDI drivers and run the Web Based TDS service programming system on your regular PC but I wouldn't trust a hacked copy of Tech2Win to not have a Trojan Horse.


Any Service Programming will require a laptop so you might's well get a good MDI clone. A cheap $150 laptop or even a cheap PC on a cart will do the job nicely.

GM SPS is $40 for single VIN programming for 24 months.

Tech2Win will emulate a Tech 2 on a laptop. It uses a binary image of a Tech2 Linear Flash card... The same BIN file you would use to burn a new Flash card in a Tech2 or Laptop PCMCIA slot.

You can download several different BIN files from the Tech2 WiKi that the SAAB forums put up. Isuzu, Suzuki, Older GM images, SAAB, etc.

You can go directly to the source in China for the known good ones.
This is my Tech 2 with a blowmolded case.
Best Offer GM Tech2 Diagnostic Scan Tool GM Scanner

This is the same animal without the case
Full Set GM TECH2 Diagnostic Scanner with TIS2000 Software

This is my WiFi MDI clone that I bought to talk to my dads' 2014 GMC.
WIFI GM MDI Multiple Diagnostic Interface Scan Tool

All of the above will talk to your vehicle.

The MDI comes with three CDs that have Tech2Win on them.

Re-programming modules requires a subscription on AC Delco TIS, a laptop connected to the internet, and an MDI or Tech2(set as a J2534 passthru device)

If you're buying this primarily to program modules get the WiFi MDI I linked.

DrShock has some very good videos on YouTube outlining how to setup and use the MDI.

MDI Clone unboxing and setup. Use the MDI Manager directly from Bosch. It'll install clean drivers for the MDI.
https://youtu.be/pZfXuuzORZo

J2534 MDI SPS programming...
https://youtu.be/sUMJFwMuAkE

Tech2 SPS programming.
https://youtu.be/Nr_eYexAAV4

GM Tech 2 for Silverado - Any using tips...

A 2005 Silverado LS 2500HD: Nothing like the quality of OEM for sure! Swapping out to new headlights and turns really help keep it looking nice and certainly fits the rest of the truck nice. The tires do look good in that pictures…I think they were just dirty in the garage shot that you posted.

Reply:

I like the improved looks. Far more important is the fact that now I can see the road at night.

Night picture in barn light. Bad time to take it. Looks better in the sun.

The MIL illuminated Monday.
Torque Pro shows Code P0446
–P0446 is triggered when the ECM has detected a short in the circuitry to activate the vent control valve or the EVAP system failed to maintain the vacuum during the active EVAP leakdown test.
No shorts in the wiring folks.

I don’t just throw parts at problems praying I guessed right. I troubleshoot. Hail Mary Shotgun repairs are way too expensive.

Plugged in the GM Tech 2 scanner clone and ran some Evap tests.
-Both Purge and Vent solenoids made substantial clicks when I commanded them on and off. This put them on the back burner.
-When I closed the vent and opened the purge valve 20% I heard a sucking noise from the filler door and the tank pressure sensor noted ZERO change… Dead Steady at 6.6in Hg.
Okey Dokey. Off to O’Riley for a Stant filler cap to replace the knackered cap on the fill pipe.
New filler cap installed. Cleared the DTC codes. MIL re-illuminated on the way home. *** is going on here…
OK… Peeling the Onion…
-GM Tech2 still shows 6.6in Hg no matter what the state of the EVAP valves. No sucking noise from the filler neck anymore so the cap really was worn out. I can now make the engine stumble from vacuum being pulled on the tank with the purge open and vent closed… The pressure sensor is reading rock steady at 6.6in Hg.
-Change the EVAP tank pressure sensor with a brand new GM sensor from the dealer in Wells River… Don’t trust China made crap and this sensor is in a really unpleasant location.
Tip for anyone doing this sensor. It’s just like a MAP sensor. The tank pressure sensor is press fit through the top of the sender but there was no need to drop the tank or lift the bed… at least on my 2005 extended cab 2500 HD. I could access and change this sensor by feel reaching up between the frame and the bed side. I made sure there was no crud on top to drop in the tank and kill the fuel pump. A backpack blower with an elbow would’ve made quick work of any loose dirt.

New sensor shows negative tank pressure values, indicating vacuum, when the purge valve is open and the vent valve is closed. No sucking from the filler and the Tech 2 now aborts the test when the vacuum reaches a low enough point. It shows 0.00in Hg with no commands to the Evap solenoid valves. No more MIL? It won’t run an Evap test with the engine temps up but I’d say it’s fixed.

The GM dealer had some 88959495 & 88959500 molded mud flaps collecting dust on the shelf for an OK price. So I picked em up.
No more sandblasting the rockers and bed corners.

Swapped the K&N Air Raid Cone filter back to the stock K43 air cleaner.
My first Blackstone UOA showed much more silica than I would like to see.

Can anyone post a clear high res picture of a 2005 California Emissions air cleaner sticker for a 2500HD with a 6.0L engine? My air cleaner box is off a 5.3L so the emissions sticker is wrong.

I have a K&N Air Raid setup for the GMT800 chassis that I don’t want or need. I’ll post it in the For Sale Section.

Question: Nicely done. Do you have the full blown tech2 that costs a few grand? Looked at the knock off ones for a few hundred….but am wary.

Reply: 
$350 Chinese knockoff with CANDI and the mods referenced by the SAAB guys.

Specifically two very important fixes…
– I replaced the dodgy DC-DC converter with a quality Japanese or Korean unit. I’ve forgotten which country it came from.
– I also replaced the SOP MAXIM RS232 <–> TTL chip with the correct part. Some Asian units have the MAX202, like mine, instead of the MAX232. $0.32 from Mouser along with some other components to make a $25 order. Floated it off with a cheap hot air pencil and tweezers. Then soldered on the replacement. Most of the new ones actually have a real Maxim MAX232 now.

I bought my Tech 2 from these guys. Took me a minute to find it in my old Email folders. http://www.obdii365.com/wholesale/gm-tech2-gmtech-2-diagnostic-scan-tool.html

Get a couple Linear flash cards with it. I got the GM 33.004 and a couple others.
My spares ride in some old PCMCIA hard plastic travel shells and a Ziploc freezer bag to protect them. You can find inexpensive card cases on Evilbay by searching for “PCMCIA Card cases”. I also keep the cables and CAN-DI in Ziploc freezer bags.

My clone Tech II works just fine with my 05 Chevrolet Silverado. Keep in mind that the Tech 2 is 1990s technology with turn of the millennium hardware/software updates that only works up to MY 2013 or so depending on the vehicle. It’s a real nice tool that I’ve used on the later-GMT400, GMT800, GMT900, & W platforms.
After MY 2013 you’ll need a Bosch MDI and GM GDS on a laptop. You can run Tech2Win and GDS on a cheap used laptop using the MDI as the vehicle interface so…

You can burn the PCMCIA linear flash cards from a PC with a real RS232 Serial port in the Tech 2 but it’s slow as death and I wouldn’t try it with a USB to RS232 adapter.
I would highly recommend finding a cheap obsolete business class laptop with USB ports and PCMCIA/CARDBUS slot. The DELL D620 D620 D820 & D830 are in the $100 price range, came from Dell with Windows XP but will run Windows 7, and have real DB9 RS232 serial ports in addition to USB2 & CARDBUS slots. My ancient 14 year old beat to death HP NX7400 works quite well for burning cards as well but it doesn’t have available Windows 7 drivers from HP and has no RS232 port.
To quickly burn linear flash cards for the Tech 2 in a CARDBUS slot in your laptop You’ll need some obsolete software from the long gone Elan Systems company called Memory Card Explorer. You can’t buy MCE anymore. If you need a virus free copy PM me. The SAAB guys have a pretty good Tech 2 WIKI that includes MCE binary images of Tech 2 PCMCIA linear flash cards.

Question: I had one Tech2 clone and it worked great with my 04 Silverado. When I got my 07 classic it was bately functional as a code reader. I wouldn’t recommend it for your 07 Silverado.

Answer:

Did you have a working CAN-DI interface box?
Mine is running the last flash image available from GM… 33.004 GM North American Operations. It works on my 2009 Impala, 2005 Silverado T800, and 2000 GMC C2500 T400. It should’ve worked on a 2007 T800 with a good CANDI box…
FYI: I’ve read that some mid 90’s GM vehicles need earlier card versions to access all functions. It seems that GM neutered the diagnostic functionality for the older vehicles in later releases.

If it’s a 2007 T900 you’re better off to get a good WiFi MDI clone or the more expensive real McCoy from Bosch without WiFi for around $700. Good clone WiFi MDI units work with laptops running the real GM software and internal firmware from AC Delco

https://www.acdelco.com/for-professionals/gm-diagnostic-programming.html

Here’s a review of the good bad and ugly about a “good” MDI clone.

http://blog.obdii365.com/2018/10/31/gm-mdi-gds2-vehicle-list-with-test-report/

Enjoy!